ICELAND, GREENLAND & ARCTIC 2014: 3 Lake Myvatn to Reykjavik, Iceland

Monday, August 18, 2014

We were off to a fairly early start in bright sunshine that lasted all day. We stopped to see the Godafoss falls, which we thought was one of the most beautiful waterfalls of the trip. It was not as high as some others, however most had muddy water while the two wide falls of Godafoss were perfectly clear.

Our drive was up the coast road following the fjords. We came to one area where sheer cliffs prevented road building, so entered a 3.6 km one lane tunnel of rough blasted rock that had frequent pullouts. This exited into a narrow valley, where we entered an 8.2 km tunnel, this time 2 lane. By the time we had crossed this rugged area we had been through 6 tunnels.

After the last tunnel we arrived in Siglurjordur, a super little town, with a picturesque fisherman's harbour (one of 3 harbours) and good restaurants. We had a fantastic meal at the busy Kaffi Raudka restaurant right on the harbour. Once full of food and drink we walked off lunch in what would be our favourite town to date. The temperature was 11.5C (52F) in the shade but the sun was wonderfully warm.

Back on the road we snaked along high cliffs with no guard rails where the drop was straight into the ocean. In the fishing village of Hofsos I had a good talk with a local fellow who told me about the impending volcano eruption while Marilynn got super reflection photos of the fishing fleet.

Tonight was spent at Saudarkrokur, where we went through the museum, then drank beer at a pub while talking to the owner. Due to the big lunch, dinner was a light meal at another restaurant where we drank more and chatted with a local fellow and his daughter. I had lobster bisque with brandy sauce & Marilynn had wings. We have still not had a bad meal in Iceland.

It is a source of constant amazement how clean, tiddly and organized everything is on the Island. It is also hard to understand how such well maintained and up to date infrastructure is supported by such a small population.

Everyone is very worried about the possible volcanic eruption under the biggest glacier. The danger warning was upped to orange from yellow today, and the national parks near the volcano are being closed.

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Again we had bright sunshine as we drove along the coast only a few meters from a rocky beach while heading out the huge peninsula that juts to the north west of Iceland. It has dozens of fijords and its own glacier, Drangajokull. Were we to do the trip again I would have booked a night in one of the coastal villages but we didn't get to the end, which is about 333 km from the main ring road.

The scenery didn't vary much on the neck of land leading to the mountainous peninsula, so we eventually decided to cross the mountains to the other side and head back towards Reykjavik. The next road we came to was gravel, but had a highway number. After a short distance the good road ended at two farms, so we turned back to where a track with grass in the centre headed towards the high mountains forming the spine of the peninsula. A warning sign said the road was for 4 X 4 only, but we decided to press on regardless.

The road began to climb sharply up a beautiful valley lined with waterfalls where we passed astonished looking sheep. We forded two streams, but the depth was manageable. Before long we were looking down at snow filled river beds, and then we were at the beginning of a steep decent which levelled out at another farm in front of an enormous waterfall at the end of a fjord. After following the fjord for some time we safely arrived at a paved highway going our way

We stopped for the most forgettable lunch of the trip at a tiny restaurant on the water in a small village before taking a gravel road out a very large peninsula off the west coast of the island. The fishing villages along the coast were said to be worth seeing, what wasn't mentioned is that it was necessary to drive several kilometres off the main road to get to the villages, something we failed to do.

We stopped to explore the towns of Borgarnes, and then out another peninsula to Akranes, neither of which was worth the effort. It was a $US 9 toll to use a 5 km tunnel on the road to Reykjjavik, where we drove the whole waterfront before getting directions to our hotel, the Reykjavik Lights The locations was a disappointing distance from the lively centre of the city. There were a number of restaurants nearby, however, so we had a good meal at one that was recommended.

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

After catching up on some writing and business emails in the morning we did a test run to the airport to confirmed our fight for tomorrow. Next was a drive near to the centre of town where we parked the car – parking costs about $US 2 per hour in parking lots or meters – and proceeded to walk the narrow shopping streets in the old town. Marilynn shopped, and I got the sun glasses I sat on unbent at a glasses shop. While this is done free in most places, I was charged $US 13. We also stopped to pick up a cash tax rebate at the visitor's centre and went for drinks in various bars. Dinner was at one restaurant, drinks and desert at another and liqueurs and another desert at a third. All in all a good afternoon.

The drive back to the hotel was interesting, as we got lost in a series of short, one way streets that herded us in a direction we didn't want to go. As we were feeling quite mellow at the time, it didn't really seem to matter a lot, and eventually we got back to the hotel for a night cap, Tomorrow we fly for Greenland.

*Summary of Iceland:*

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Size – 103,000 sq km (39,769 sq mi) -

Of this size 11,922 sq km (4,600 sq mi) is glacier -

Wasteland covers 64,538 sq km (24,918 sq mi) -

The coastline in 4,970 km (3,088 mi) long -

We drove 2,288 km in the rental car -

Highest mountain is Hvannadalshnjukur at 2,110 meters (6,921 ft) -

The total population as of January 1, 2014 was 325,671. 208,752 of those live in Greater Reykjavik -

We had our trip organized by a travel agency, but it is really not necessary. You can rent a vehicle on line, and there are frequent information places with excellent books, maps, brochures and good suggestions. We asked at hotel reception each morning what we should see on that day's route and they were helpful and knowledgeable. There are lots of hotels of various prices, and even more farm stays. Blue signs with yellow writing have the name of each farm, and if they offer meals, accommodation or other interests such as horseback riding or hiking, international symbols indicate this on their sign. -

The currency is the ISK, or Iceland Kroner. It is best to change some money into Krona for small purchases, as dollars or euros are not widely accepted, however Visa and MasterCard are accepted everywhere. It is the main payment method on the island. -

Taxes and prices are high. On a restaurant bill you will find 25% VAT and an additional 7% for another tax on top of already high prices. Appetizers will run $US13 to to $22 and a main meal from $18 to $45 in a good restaurant. Speciality meals would be even more. Food was consistently excellent. Beer ran about $US 8 per pint, and the local beers were all very good. Imported wines are available, and most places offer full bottles or single glass sized bottles which sold for about $US10.50. -

We rented a diesel 6 speed standard transmission Skoda car, which ran very well. Diesel cost about $2.40 per litre. -

There is no admission to national parks or natural attractions, although this is being discussed. -

You can drink tap water anywhere. It is very fresh and pure. -

English is taught in the schools from grade one. We ran into very few people who did not speak English fluently – many time with no accent, making touring very easy for English speakers. -

The Icelanders as a whole are very friendly, helpful and knowledgeable about their country. -

The scenery is indescribable. It is one of the most amazing places I have visited for dramatic natural beauty. -

Is it worth visiting? A very definite YES.