Falkland Islands 2010: 4 - Saunders Island

Wednesday & Thursday, December 15 & 16, 2010

The morning passed pleasantly as we waited for our flight. The French fellows were on an earlier flight to Sea Lion Island, so Rob drove them to the airport while the rest of us played games or strolled around outside where the kids were climbing trees and playing tug of war with the Johnny Rooks (Caracara birds). Roldan presented us with one of his famous packed lunches before Rob drove us to the airport where the little red plane ferried Clive and us to Saunders Island in about 10 minutes. Daniel and Saisha are really enjoying the flights.

At Saunders people and cargo were loaded, with everyone pitching in to haul cargo to the plane before it made a quick return flight to nearby Shallow Bay on West Island. We took advantage of the 20 minutes the plane was away to explore the beach with its magellanic penguin colony and eat our lunch. When the plane was loaded for Pebble Island we waved goodbye to Clive and were driven to the store by Suzan Pole-Evans, whose husband David owns the island. Picking were a bit slim, as the supply ship is due in tomorrow, but we put together enough to keep us well fed for the two days we'll be here.

Saunders Island is about 13 miles (21 km) from east to west and a little less north-east to south west covering 30,640 acres (12,400 ha). It is fourth largest island in the Falklands, although the locals would call it the second largest island as they refer to East and West Falkland Islands as "the mainland". It was the site of the first British Falklands settlement in 1765. They have around 6,500 sheep, 400 cattle and a number of horses used to round up the other animals. It is quite hilly, with the highest point being 457 m (1,462 ft). It was 40 minutes in the Land Rover over rough terrain to reach "The Rookery", a lonely cottage six miles from the settlement. There will be no popping off to the store from here!

The cottage is a well built and insulated 2 bedroom place, with a bathroom and kitchen/living area - all carpeted except the bathroom. It has good heat, a shower and drapes on the windows, but that is about it - no "extras". Suzan was quite surprised Marilynn asked if there was soap! Fortunately I had some. The walls were bare except for one clock, there were no games, no video or TV, no transport to sightseeing areas - comparing it to Bleaker Island is like comparing a Sheraton to the YMCA. Fortunately there was a radio and the one station operated by the military base provided excellent music.

Once instructed in the operation of the diesel generator we were left with a 2-way radio and instructed to call after 7 PM tomorrow night for our flight and pickup time. Marilynn put together a delicious dinner of mutton chops, after which we walked about 20 minutes to the Albatross rookery, where some 11,000 of the huge endangered birds nested along the cliffs. My knees have come to the end of the road - I had great difficulty getting back to the cottage. Once there I had a restorative beer, and Daniel and I partnered to very closely defeat the ladies at Skip Bo. Thank goodness we have the game with us for something to do in the evening!

Thursday morning was relatively warm (10 C or 50 F) with sunny patches. Marilynn, Daniel & Saisha trekked off to see the rock hopper penguin rookery while I caught up on various things. They say it was the biggest rock hopper colony so far, but the famous "waterfall" the penguins shower under was little more than drips today - however, it was still being used. Saisha was excited to get photos of a chick coming out of the egg!

After lunch the hardy crew headed off to a white sand beach 15 minutes away where there were a few gentoos, lots of magellanic penguins plus a young elephant sea. I was able to watch them through my binocular from a hill beside the cottage. Unfortunately Marilynn lost her $400 prescription glasses there, and even though the kids went back to search they weren't found. The evening passed with Marilynn and I being thoroughly beaten several times at Skip Bo. We are all sad that this will be the last island we visit other than going to Stanley. It has been a great trip.