Marquesa & Christmas Islands: 8- Kiritimati, Kiribati to Costa Rica

Monday, April 28, 2008 (Tuesday, April 29 in Kiribati)

We were in London by 9 AM to board the same boat as before. Enough sandwiches has been prepared to feed an army, and William, our favourite guide, was on board with a boatman who knew the best clear water snorkelling and diving sites outside the reef. This time I remembered the beer and they remembered a cooler of ice from the fish plant.

Marilynn wanted to get some photos of fly fishing, so we had arranged to meet the fishing guys. They left by truck early, we were to arrive by boat. We left London optomistically in spite of a build up of dark clouds, but half way across the lagoon it turned cold and the rain poured down. No shoreline was visable and waves were getting bigger, so we were pretty sure the fishermen would have given it up.

Reluctantly, we turned around and went back to London where locals said they didn't think the weather would clear today. Sadly, we distributed beer and sandwiches among the crew, took the coolers back to the small lodge that prepared lunch and drove back to the hotel. I forgot to take sandwiches for Marilynn & I, so it was instant noodles again!

This afternoon we started organizing to leave, and I caught up on some writing. Right now I'm looking from our bungalow at grey skies hanging over a heavy sea that is pounding onto the reef only 100 meters (328 ft) away.

Ereti arrive in the late afternoon to pick up the rental car and payment for her services. All was as agreed, however I objected to the $250 the hotel had charged for boat rental for today's aborted trip. She had prepaid the rental, so didn't think a refund would be possible, but at my insistance we went to the hotel office to see what could be done.

The desk staff said they thought nothing could be done, but I said to ask the manager. This started a series of delay tactics where they would disappear to the manager's office, then come back to say they had to contact the boatmen to see how long we were out. When we said we would wait, they would go back to the manager's office then come out sad faced saying nothing could be done. After two or three rounds of this I demanded to see the manager, and both desk staff disappeared in the back. When they returned they admitted that the manager was not there!

To get Ereti on her way I paid everything but half the boat rental, then when we went for dinner I talked to the manager. There was no arguement necessary - she promptly reduced the rental cost to $60, and made arrangements with Ereti for a refund.

The hotel bill must be checked carefully - the price I was given by telephone was $890 per week without meals, but the bill said $1,290. That was quickly reduced by the manager. There were other surprises - I thought airport transfers were free, but were on the bill at $20 each way, dinner for BBQ night was $40 per person instead of the usual $20, $40 was charged as a fee for each night of entertainment and an undisclosed 10% tax was charged on the total.

Tonight's entertainment was a beautiful traditional farewell, and in spite of food stocks having been depleted by the unexpected 14 guests from Palmyra they had steaks for the going away meal. Drinks flowed as we finished the remaining liquor stocks brought to the island by guests. Part of the manager's farewell speech was, "I hope you enjoyed the fishing", then a pause as she looked at us, "And that you enjoyed whatever you did". They are not used to tourists who don't fish or dive!

Marilynn was singing with the staff after the others had gone to bed, so we were a little later than most turning in.

Summary & resources: We had no problem staying busy for the week. A rental car organized in advance is essential - without wheels we would have been stranded. English is understood by most people, and the islanders are friendly and helpful. There are mosquitos during the early evening, but not bad enough to worry about. There is a good internet cafe with wireless in London for $2 per hour. The currency is Australian dollars, but US dollars are accepted at par. Only the hotel and BMJ market gave an exchange rate. There is a bank near London where money can be changed at a decent rate.

The Captain Cook Hotel has the best accommodation with comfortable beds. It is located near the airport, close to BMJ market - the best shopping place on the island - and about 26 km (16 miles) from London. Our swimming spot was a 5 minute drive from the hotel. The food was good, they do packed lunches, laundry service is cheap ($1 for shirts, shorts, etc washed, pressed and back in the room in 4-5 hours), they have their own boats and can arrange fishing, scuba and tours.

Our preference was a bungalow facing the ocean, but rooms in the main building are cheaper. Accommodation, bar, laundry, breakfast and dinner came to $1,660 for 7 nights. Prices seem to be flexable, so arrange a price in advance, then confirm both price and what it includes by fax or email to have it in writing.

Rooms include refrigerator, good maid service with fresh towels daily and air conditioning is available. We had air conditioning but didn't used it - the ceiling fan kept it cool enough at night and during the day a cool breeze blew through when front and back doors were opened. The hotel email address is cchxmas@tskl.net.ki and the manager's name is Tinia Teuriaria. Internet at the hotel is not reliable, so phone or fax may be better - telephone 686-81230 or 686-81249, fax 686-81425. They had lost my reservation when we arrived, but there are always rooms and bungalows available.

We stopped to have a look at Crystal Beach Fishing Lodge located a few miles toward London from Captain Cook. It is situated on a better beach, which is swimable when the tide is not low. They had nice bungalows with large rooms, porches, refrigerator and bathrooms with shower. A concern would be food - Captain Cook brings in fresh stocks weekly by air but Crystal Beach would not have the volume to do that. They can be contacted at anita-jimt@yahoo.com. It is possible to eat at Captain Cook without staying there.

Our rental car and tours were arranged by Ereti (pronounced Eres) Tekabaia of Adventure Dive & Fishing Lodge. She did a great job - everything was as promised and on time. She was also very good at returning emails. I'd not recommend their lodge other than for back packers, but they use the Captain Cook boats for water bourne tours. She upcharges her costs 20% as commission, but did not charge 10% sales tax. Email ote@tskl.net.ki or ote_tek@yahoo.com . (That is ote_tek) This internet connection is more reliable. Phone is 686-81364 or fax 686-81246.

Tuesday, April 29, 2008 (Wednesday, April 30 in Kiribati)

A knock on the door got us up at 4 AM. Luggage was picked from our bungalow and taken to the airport. Not being much into eating this early we had a light snack then sat around until 5:30 AM when we climbed into the truck for a ride to the airport. Luggage went through a cursory inspection, passports were stamped, a $20 departure tax paid and boarding passes issued. This employed about a dozen people to process seven.

The plane arrived early, and left at 7:15 instead of 7:30. We arrived at Honolulu right behind a plane from Korea, so the immigration lineup was tediously slow. Our luggage arrived and a taxi took us to the Royal Hawaiian where a room was ready.

After hamburgers and a couple of beer at the beach bar Marilynn did some shopping and we both had a seista. In the evening we had tickets for the Society of Seven, a show at the adjoining Beachcomber Hotel. I'd seen them a couple of years before, but it was all new. It is a great show - well worth seeing.

Wednesday, April 30, 2008

We slept late, and then Marilynn did more shopping while I caught up on the computer. Bob Morrison, the senior pilot who had been on Christmas Island doing the rescue run to Palmyra, came to the hotel and we had an enjoyable lunch together. I caught up on internet until our 4 PM checkout, then we taxiied to the airport arriving early for our 6:55 PM departure. A few gin tonics in the President's Club helped pass the time!

Flights were on time, and after a layover in Houston for 1 ½ hours we caught the morning flight for Costa Rica, arriving before noon. The faithful Carlos was at the airport to take us home, where we return to the disaster area awaiting the final stages of our home construction project!