Marquesa & Christmas Islands: 3 - Fatu Hiva to Ua Huka, Marquesas Islands

Friday, April 11, 2008

Omoa, population 400, is capital of the island of Fatu Hiva, where we woke up this morning. The total population of this 9 mi (14.5 km) long 3.5 mi (5.6 km) wide island is less than 600. It is the southernmost and rainiest of the Marquesas. During Norwegian anthropologist Thor Heyerdahl's honeymoon here in 1937 he came up with the theory that the islands had been settled from South America, leading to the 1947 Kon Tiki expedition. He also wrote a book about his time on the island called "Fatu-Hiva: Back to Nature".

Not far from the ship is a fishing boat that sank last night. It is now slightly above the water, supported by three empty 45 gallon oil drums. The story is that captain and crew were very drunk, ploughed into the rocks near shore and the captain woke up in the infirmary. Bad news for him, as he had just installed a 3,000,000 franc ($US 42,800) engine in the boat.

Although the sea looked fairly calm, there was a swell of 9-12 feet (2.7-3.6 m) at the exposed cement landing. It took careful timing on the part of the crew to assist people ashore as the barge paused on top of large waves. A ten minute walk took us to the village, where the best handicraft displays we have seen on the trip were laid out. Prices were lower, so I bought a wood carved tiki to protect us.

We got caught in a rainstorm near the beach where several stone tikis guarded the village, so made use our new rain capes. Jim from Las Vegas and I sought refuge in the long porch of an abandoned school while the women toughed it out under a tree. After an excellent demonstration of how traditional cloth is made from the bark of trees we walked back to the landing to watch cargo being shuttled ashore while waiting for a ride back to the Aranui. Lunch was on board while the ship made the short trip along the coast to the village of Hanavave. Hardy passengers took a 10 mile hike over the mountains between the villages and met us there.

The bay at Hanavave sheltered a French minesweeper and 14 yachts, of which three were Canadian, three US and one German. The relatively calm water made disembarking behind the breakwater easy, but there were no machines to unload heavy freight - everything was wrestled ashore by hand. Two pickup trucks were waiting on barges for the tide to lift them enough to drive onto the stone quay.

Less than two hundred people live here, and it seems everyone turned out to welcome us. There was a handicraft area with live music, a demonstration of coconut oil making and dancing by children to the throbbing beat of several Polynesian drums. The youngest dancer would have been about 3, and a young girl aged 4 was dazzling with her swaying hips and quick smile. The 16 or so dancers displayed tremendous enthusiasm - it was excellent.

The ship put specialty cocktails on for half price while everyone crowded the pool deck to watch the sun fade into the clouds above the horizon. The colours of the cliffs and steep hills that drop into the ocean will change several times as the sun sets, but it was too cloudy today. The half price drinks went down well, though. Marilynn I finished in our cabin with a tub of "add hot water" noodles from the gift shop instead of another three course meal.

Saturday, April 12, 2008

The first port this morning was Puamau, on the opposite side of Hiva Oa from where we stopped previously. The exposed docking area made for another exciting exit from the landing barge. Transport was laid on to take us up to an important archaeological site restored with donations from the Aranui owners, but as the small town could only provide four vehicles there was a 20 minute wait between trips to be shuttled into the mountains.

This site has the largest tiki outside of Easter Island, and a number of lesser statues. It is very well looked after and well populated with mosquitoes, who had a field day with me, as I left my repellent in the vehicle on Niku Hiva. When a kind fellow passenger loaned me some repellent the problem was solved. Insects have been rare on this trip. We were warned of "nono" flies (a type of no-seeum) on Niku Hiva, but they weren't bad.

We walked down the mountain to look at the grave of the last chief of Puamau, and then caught a ride to a nice sandy beach in front of the church where we swam and body surfed in the warm ocean until a blast on the ship's horn called us back.

During lunch we travelled along the coast to the little town of Hanaiapa. Snorkelling from the pier is reputed to be reasonable when the sea is calm, but as there is a fair swell today and little else was offered on shore I chose a siesta instead. I was tempted by the cream of pumpkin with ginger soup and salmon for dinner, but Marilynn didn't feel like eating so I deferred as well.

Sunday, April 13, 2008

Our first view of the small island of Tahuata was through a heavy curtain of rain in front of the Village of Vaitahu, however the rain stopped as suddenly as it started and by the time the barges were ready to ferry us ashore the landing was in bright sunlight under blue skies spotted with white clouds.

The island is less than 2 miles (3.2 km) from Hiva Oa. The 15 km (9.3 mi) long island has peaks over 3,000 ft (915 ft), the highest being 3,445 ft (1,050 m). It is famous for bone carving and sandalwood. This was a short stop, as there was not much freight, so we were underway again by 10:30 AM for the short ride to the next village.

Hapatoni, also on Tahuata, is one of the most remote villages in the Marquesas. It's billing as one of the most beautiful and untouched in the islands is justified, as it is the only place we have been with no paved roads and only a couple of vehicles. As we climbed to the concrete dock located behind the protective breakwater we were greeted by girls decorating our heads with palm frond wreaths

A main industry on this island is bone carving, and several tables had been set up to sell their products in the village meeting area. Trays of local fruit were laid out and an impressive welcoming dance session was held, featuring a good sampling of the local populace from young children to older people. Music was by traditional drums, guitars and ukuleles. A big BBQ buffet followed the entertainment, where once again we overindulged.

After walking to the end of the village and back, which took about 5 minutes, we took the short walk back to the landing were we put on our snorkelling gear and sent cloths, cameras and so on back to the ship with some kind volunteers who were headed that way. The water was a bit cloudy in the little harbour area but the seaward side of the breakwater was great - there was a profusion of brightly coloured tropical fish.

Back on board Marilynn did some photo editing while I did some writing, and then we joined friends in the bar. Marilynn and the others headed for the dining room for shrimp cocktails and filet mignon, but I passed on dinner, being still full from lunch.

Monday, April 14, 2008

We were up at 6 AM to watch what they call "The Manoeuvre". The long, narrow entrance to the sheltered bay at Vaipaee, Island of Ua Huka, is sandwiched between high cliffs. To be able to leave, the ship must turn 180 degrees on its own axis to face the sea. The manoeuvre takes skill, as the distance between the cliffs is only slightly more than the length of the ship, which must turn moving neither forward nor aft. Whaleboats with outboard motors watch the distance between the ship and cliffs both fore and aft, then take light lines to the bottom of the cliffs, where nimble seamen jump onto small platforms carved out of the cliff on each side. The hawsers attached to the lines are pulled in and placed over stout metal stanchions built into the cliffs. A bow anchor is dropped completing the exercise. It is apparently not unusual to have seamen washed overboard from the cliff platforms when the seas are heavy.

Ua Huka is 9 mi (14.5 km) long and 4 mi (6.5 km) wide. 585 people live on the drier island, with its red baked mountains near the shoreline. Almost 500 of the island's population live in the town of Vaipaee. There is about 14 km of road and an airport on the 83 sq. km island.

On shore a fleet of vehicles were waiting to take us to the handicraft center, and the small but well done museum. The town is long, with a few buildings at the beach but most stretched along a narrow valley. Inland from the town we visited a botanical garden before taking the twisting coast road to the Village of Hane for more handicrafts and another small museum. Our driver took us up the hill to Restaurant Chez Celine Fournier, where another amazing buffet of island specialties was laid on.

After lunch the drivers were ready to take people down the coast to the next village, Hokatu, however we chose not to go. I was feeling a bit out of sorts, so I headed back to the ship while Marilynn had a swim. The ship had moved to this bay after unloading at Vaipaee.

It was Polynesian night on board, with special drinks, entertainment and a big BBQ on the swimming pool deck. The ship's band of guitars, ukuleles and drums were in fine form as they provided the music.

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