Himalayas & China 2005: 14 - Nepal to Darjeeling, India

Monday, October 17, 2005

Chinese Immigration is just down hill from the hotel. Youdon said they would open at 9:30 AM, and that we should be there early due to line-ups, so at 9 we were in the lobby as she monitored the immigration line. It was freezing cold at 9:15 when we lined up behind a busload of Tibetans. At about 9:50 the general who had stayed down the hall from us roared through immigration with his convoy of vehicles amid much jumping to attention and saluting. I thought he was our hold-up, but in reality immigration did not open until 10 AM. They open at 9:30 in high season.

The driver took our suitcases to get them through X-ray and loaded them into the car while we waited in the immigration line, then we drove a fair distance down to customs, near river level. A porter sent by Dharma Adventures was waiting to take our suitcases across the bridge to the Nepalese side of the river. There was a wait for the customs people, then a short walk across the bridge where the assistant operations manager of the company, Swodesh Malla, was waiting for us.

We walked on gravel road through barricades manned by a large military presence while Swodesh quickly and efficiently dealt with Nepal customs and immigration. Both sides of the road were lined with shacks where people sold food and trinkets. At the end of our short hike waited a Tata 4 X 4 and driver. The vehicle was spotlessly clean, wider that most SUVs and comfortable, with good legroom in the back. Our luggage was quickly loaded and we were on our way. The time change between China and Tibet is a strange 1 hour and 45 minutes, but we should actually see the sun when we get up in the morning now.

Tata vehicles are made in India. The majority buses and trucks we saw were made by Tata. The buses must have good carrying capacity, as people were crammed inside like sardines, and the maximum number possible were also sitting precariously on top. If the speed was kept down and it wasn't raining, sitting on top in fresh air would likely be best option! The vehicle we were in was quite impressive.

We were on a rough gravel track for the first 40 km, but before we had reached pavement we were passing banana trees! Yes, you read that right! Jackets came off, then sweaters as we enjoyed the heat. Once on paved road banana trees became a common sight - in that short distance we had descended to a semi tropical paradise. Beautiful terraces climbed the slopes on both sides of the river, bright yellow with rice or in the various shades of green of other crops. In some fields were rows of white squares. It was explained that this is traditional rice paper drying.

The road was in good shape except where landslides had been removed. We were still driving down a canyon, but the sides became less steep until they were eventually covered with terraced farmland. There were frequent military roadblocks and foot patrols of very alert troops who studied everyone carefully and kept rifles always at the ready.

We stopped for an excellent lunch at a resort hotel, where we sat on the patio with a great view of the valley below and the Himalayan range, starkly white against a dark blue sky. In a country that is 83% Hindu I was surprised to see beef on the menu, but that proved quite common. I happily devoured a delicious filet mignon!

We were taken to the beautiful Hotel de l'Annapurna in Kathmandu. The driver and Swodesh waited while we moved into our room then dropped us in the nearby Thamel district. This is known as a tourist district, but there appeared to be more locals than tourists crowding the large area of small shops on narrow, twisting streets and even narrower alleyways. The area is sprinkled with frequent temples, shrines and stupas. Marilynn hit shopping overload, lamenting continually the 15 kg weight restriction on checked luggage when we fly out of Kathmandu. Shopping was still accomplished as weights and suitcase capacity were calculated with each purchase. After walking miles we chose to take a bicycle rickshaw back to the hotel.

Dinner was at the hotel restaurant, where the food was great and the service impeccable. Beer and a very drinkable white wine accompanied the meal. Retiring to our room was a real pleasure - it was clean, comfortable and had both heat and hot water! We both felt renewed!

Kathmandu is a city of 2 million people in a country of 23 million. An exact population figure for the city is impossible due to the large influx of people fleeing the Maoist guerrillas in the countryside, and the influx of Tibetan refugees. The altitude is 1,375 meters (4,510.).

Today was an easy 9:30 AM start after a great breakfast. Our first stop was Swayambhunath, a hilltop stupa that is more than 2,000 years old. It is the holiest place for Newari Buddhists, and is known as the "monkey temple" for the many rhesus monkeys that clamber over the area. There are more, and bigger prayer wheels here than I have seen anywhere.

We managed to climb the 365 steps to the top. Part way up a snake charmer was plying his trade, something that got Marilynn quite excited. Noting her distress, a Nepalese woman said she would stand between Marilynn and the snakes to protect her. At the top it was interesting to see a Hindu temple as well. The two religions have been very close in Nepal for a long time. There is a view of all Kathmandu from the top.

When we left we had to avoid an estimated 100,000 people participating in the Deepankha Yatra. It is a 24 hour religious parade made up of Buddhists, Hindus and Sikhs. Many streets area barricaded off for them. Participant will walk 60 km from 4 AM this morning to 4 AM tomorrow to visit 141 holy sites. The more they visit the more sins are forgiven. It is the first time in 38 years the event has taken place, as it must coincide with an eclipse of the moon, which will occur tonight. This happens every 19 years, but the last time it happened astrologers could not agree on the exact date so no parade came about.

Our driver tried to get to the Durban, the centre square of the city, but was thwarted by a traffic jam. High fuel costs don't seem to have kept vehicles off the road here! Eventually vehicles began to give it up and jockey back and forth across the road until they turned around and headed the other way. Behind us a bus managed the same thing, blocking traffic both ways as it stretched across the road, but it eventually managing to move off the opposite direction. The driver finally performed the same manoeuvre and went to the Boudhanath stupa instead.

This is the site of a giant stupa said to contain a bone of Buddha. It is a very holy Tibetan Buddhist site where 10,000 Tibetan refugees live. A pedestrian street circles the stupa, and around this circular street are three story buildings selling Tibetan art work, Tibetan restaurants and so on. Proceeds from sales go to assist Tibetan refugees. We climbed partway up the stupa, which is being whitewashed and outlined with lights for an upcoming festival. Lunch was at one of the restaurants overlooking the stupa.

Marilynn decided to buy a woman beggar milk for the healthy looking baby held in her arms. The large size can of powdered milk was 385 rupees, about $5.50. Later we discovered that this is a trick used by beggars to get large donations. A similar ploy is to say they are studying and ask for a dictionary. In each case the product is returned to the shop for a refund. Likely the shop keeper gets a commission.

After lunch we went to the Pashupatinath Hindu temple site. Non Hindus are not permitted entry to the temple, which is built around a huge, golden statue of a bull, but the rest of the complex is open to everyone. At a temple area along the river many cremations were in under way. It was possible to watch bodies being laid on piles of wood, covered with wet reeds to slow the burning process, then the wood set on fire. Personal effects of the deceased are thrown into the river, followed by the burned remains. The muddy water of the river is considered sacred, and people were bathing in it and drinking it.

Our guide says the number of cremations is up since the Maoist guerrilla problem began. Apparently about 11,000 people have been killed to date. The Maoists seem to be fairly astute at business, though, as they are no longer bothering tourist destinations, and they charge a toll of 1,000 rupees to enter areas of the country they control, with a 50% discount for students.

Our final stop was Durban Square, the royal square in the centre of the city. The royal palace was built in the 17th century and added to since then, but it has been used only for ceremonial occasions in the past 100 years. The square is lined with statues, towers and ancient buildings, including the palace (Kumari Bahai) of the living goddess, Kumari.

The Kumari must be a Newari Buddhist girl, who is considered to be the incarnation of the Hindu goddess Durga. She helps fuse the Buddhist and Hindu beliefs in Nepal. This is the most important of 11 Kumari's in the Kathmandu Valley. The Kumari is selected at the age of 4 or 5 years. There are 32 physical requirements that must be met, applicant's astrological chart must not conflict with the king's, and then remaining candidates are put in a dark room full of heads cut off water buffalo, scary masks and loud noises. The one who last longest without showing fear is selected.

This young girl is then installed in the Kumari Bahai in Durban Square until she sheds blood, either from accident or her first menstruation. Until that time her feet are not permitted to touch the ground, so at appearances she is carried on a palanquin. Once blood is shed she must return to her parent's home and another is selected. Returning to mortality can be a problem, and the girls have a difficult time finding a husband as it is said that a man who marries a former Kumari will die young.

Across from the square we located a camera shop where Marilynn bought a polarizer for her camera, and they sent someone to get some floppy discs for me, as both the ones I brought have crashed. Back at the hotel I finally got an update out before returning to the Thamel area for more shopping. After another good dinner at the hotel we turned in.

Wednesday, October 19, 2005

Our airport pickup was right on time. We were escorted to the airport by Ashim, who flew with us, as he will be our guide through India and Sikkim. He has a trekking tour in Sikkim two days he leaves us in Bhutan. We said goodbye to the driver. He had looked after us well, keeping the vehicle super clean, opening and closing doors and generally giving excellent service.

On the way into the airport, a porter collided with Ashim's cart, knocking some of our luggage onto the ground. A casualty was a bottle of Ashim's red wine that, when breaking, spilled over a lot of his things and Marilynn's case, ensuring we would have wine aroma with us once we were in our vehicle.

The airport was heavily guarded, with lots of armed troops. Our checked baggage was X-rayed going into the airport. When we checked in Ashim piled his luggage and ours onto the scale, and we were amazed that nothing was said, as it would have been double the allowable weight. Later it came out that he knew somebody and a small contribution solved everything! Marilynn was upset she didn't buy more!

Once checked in we stepped over the weighing scales and walked to the security area. There were no metal detectors, only a counter each for men and women, where after a cursory look into my carry on and a couple of pats on my coat we entered the smoky waiting lounge. They obviously are not too concerned about tourists.

Our airline was Buddha Air, flying a twin engine Beech 1900. The name seemed to fit the wing and a prayer sort of casualness. We were last on the bus to the plane, which seemed a good thing as it was scramble seating and we would be first on the plane. It was announced we must identify our luggage before boarding. While we were doing that everyone else ignored their baggage and boarded, leaving us last. There was no overhead storage, so Marilynn ended up sitting on her carry on, and I had a cramped seat in front with no window. As there was only one seat down each side I stuck me legs out into the aisle.

The flight was only 45 minutes, so we were soon on the ground at Chandragadi airport in East Nepal, altitude 91 m (300.). The airport had one soldier with no gun relaxing against a counter, and no other visible security systems. This whole part of the country seemed very relaxed.

When we got to the vehicle that was to transport Tim, Jeanna, Marilynn, the guide, the driver and I, it turned out to be a standard size Toyota 4 X 4. While the luggage was being piled on the roof I told Ashim that this was not going to work. Ashim had the driver stop at a store where he could use the phone to contact Pawan, the manager of Dharma Adventures, and then put me on the phone with him. Pawan explained that the roads in Sikkim were not suitable for a minibus, and that he had quoted on only one 4 X 4. If we wanted a bus or a second vehicle it would cost around $450. I said I'd talk to Tim and Jeanna when we picked them up and let him know, but he said that wouldn't be necessary - Ashim could make the necessary arrangements.

After clearing Nepal formalities at Kakarvitt, and the Indian entrance formalities at Ranigant we proceeded to the airport at Bagdogra to pick up our friends, Tim & Jeanna Carlson. The border formalities on both sides could have been a little quicker but neither side had computers, so each entry needed to be made laboriously by hand into a huge ledger. It was interesting that Nepalese need no passports to enter or leave India. The time change between countries was 15 minutes - no jet lag there!

The plane was on time, so we were soon exchanging greetings with our friends. Both quickly agreed that the vehicle we had was impossible for comfort, so Ashim agreed to find another vehicle by lunchtime. He dropped us at a restaurant in a town about half an hour away while he arranged the vehicle and tried to arrange the Sikkim permits for Marilynn and I - Tim and Jeanna had theirs from the Indian consul in the US. It turned out the permits could not be issued as an official of Sikkim was in the area and the office was closed. We will try again at the Sikkim border.

Ashim came up with an interesting bit of information at lunch. Because Yaks cannot live below 3,000 metres, they have been crossbred with cattle creating an animal that in Sikkim is called a djos (pronounced joe). It apparently makes a great pack animal at most altitudes.

An SUV taxi had been hired for Tim & Jeanna, so we headed of for Darjeeling. The winding road climbs continually for over 2,000 metres (6,560.). The driver obviously knew the road, but had Marilynn terrified as we overtook other vehicles in rain and cloud. In many places this main road to Darjeeling was a single lane effort, where one or the other vehicles had to pull over to let the other by. I thought our driver was very competent, but apparently Jeanna had the same nervous problem as Marilynn.

It was slow going, with many stops in traffic tie-ups, so it was well after dark when we arrived in the city. We are staying at the Hotel Elgin, a former luxury hotel built in colonial times for the British to escape the heat of summer when Darjeeling was a hill station. The altitude here is a much cooler 2,124 m (7,000.). The hotel smelled musty throughout, and the only heat in the building was an ineffective electric heater in the room.

We found the bar soon after arrival, but even the quality of gin tonics have slid since its glory days. Mind you, I had two anyhow! We had to celebrate Tim having passed 300 destinations on the Travelers' Century Club list. Dinner was not great, and being tired we all turned in right after eating. The king sized bed we have is really comfortable, so once snuggled inside we had a good night.