INDIA & BANGLADESH 2014: 9 From Agartala, India to Dhaka, Bangladesh

Saturday, October 18, 2014

After 30 minutes we arrived at the border. Samir says his agency flew him to Agartala to "kill 2 sparrow with one arrow". First to show us the area and see how long it took to visit various sites, then when we are in Bangladesh he will interview other tour companies to find suitable transport and guides. For our part, we were delighted to have him with us for a couple of more days – we have really enjoyed travelling with him.

On the Indian side of the border was a huge marble and granite complex with no one in it except employees. We were processed through immigration and customs, then Samir met us beside the actual border. We said our farewells, but will keep in touch.

The Bangladesh side of the border was a great deal more humble, a small shack where the officials were no less friendly and helpful. Once the formalities were completed local porters, young boys, took our baggage and balanced it on their heads for the trek to the vehicle. The youngest was 9 years old, and was the boss. He argued long and hard with our Bangladesh guide to get the price up, as I have no Bangladesh currency and had to borrow from the guide. There is a one half hour time difference between India and Bangladesh.

When we saw our vehicle we were awestruck! It is a 15 seat Toyota passenger van with 10 seats installed. There is loads of room inside permitting legs to stretch full out. The driver's cockpit looked like the driving station in a motor home. Two guides and a driver were there to meet us.

There were several stops on our way to Dhaka to photograph large scale rice production. It is sorted, raked, swept into heaps and then bagged, a process that employed hundreds of people along the way. We also stopped at a service station to fill the propane bottle – our vehicle runs on liquid natural gas.

Bangladesh started as part of India, then when India was partitioned it was East Pakistan, a Muslim area. In 1971 there was a civil war against Pakistan, which resulted in independence and the name became Bangladesh. It has a population of over 160 million. The Delta caused by the Brahmaputra and Ganges River systems create the Bengal Delta, the largest in the world.

We stopped for a great lunch of Bengali food, where it cost about 30 cents US to use the washroom. The lack of army presence is noticeable. The highway and Dhaka are loaded with battered buses that look like they just lost a demolition derby, but are still going. There is not an undamaged square inch on them. When they cut in front of us they win, as we knew they really didn't care if they hit or not! Buses would come charging down on our side of the road playing a game of chicken while overtaking other vehicles with no intention of yielding.

Once into Dhaka, population 15 million, everything stopped in one traffic jam after another. It is known for its bicycle rickshaws – there are over 400,000 - more than cars. We were dropped at the very deluxe Pan Pacific Hotel, a true luxury break and an oasis from the frantic traffic of the city. We had a "splurge" dinner with lots of wine. I had a perfectly done tender steak and Marilynn had an enormous Bengal Bay lobster – it was as good a meal as we have ever had, and the service was impeccable.

Sunday, October 19, 2014

Bangladesh is 90% Muslim, and there is a mosque near the hotel that does a fine job of waking us at 4:27 AM with the call to prayer. We were picked up by guide Farouk and driver Faro at 9 AM, after doing some damage to the acres of breakfast goodies in the restaurant.

We first visited the language monument, built in memory of 5 students killed by riot police when protesting having to speak Pakistani Urdu rather than the Bangladeshi language in 1952. This was the first step in an independence movement.

We were looking for a tailor in town to make pants for Marilynn – although it is Sunday it is a normal working day - the Muslim weekend in Friday and Saturday. I spotted a shoe shiner and attracted a large crowd of on lookers while my shoes were being done! People here are very curious about strangers. We went to a bazaar with many, many stalls, where Marilynn found some ready made pants that would do the trick, then took them to a nearby tailor who charged about 75 cents to shorten and hem two pairs. Prices here are very low!

Our next stop with to the only legal liquor outlet in the city. It is located down obscure lanes, and into courtyards that have guards, but no one else around, and no signage or identification on the buildings. It seemed like a bootleg operation even though it was legal! We purchased 3 bottle of Australian wine to take up country with us, as we are advised that in our licensed hotel will be the last liquor we will see.

Marilynn wanted to visit the pearl market, but it was closed on Sunday, so we went to another shopping area where pearls were sold. I slept in a comfortable waiting area while Marilynn dickered over jewelry.

It took a long time in traffic to get back to the hotel, but once we did we headed for the pool bar where Marilynn had a martini and I absorbed a couple of beer. Dinner was in the same restaurant, where we were greeted like old friends by the manager and staff. The meal was once again world class – we over ate and enjoyed doing so immensely. The chef came to the table to chat, all & all a good evening.

We had just gone to bed when the phone rang. It was Farouk, our guide, with very bad news. He would be picking us up at 6 AM, as the airline had advanced the departure of the flight by four hours. That meant no easy morning, no breakfast instead of the best breakfast of the trip (which we paid for) and little sleep!