Marquesa & Christmas Islands: 4 - Nuku Hiva, Marquesas to Papeete, Tahiti

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

As it was only a short run from Ua Huka to Nuku Hiva we spent the night in the bay at Taiohae. This was our second port of call when we came to the Marquesas, and the last place with internet access to use my four 15 minute cards, so I didn't go ashore. Due to the slow connection it took the entire hour of cards to read four emails, send one update, one set of photos and check a hotel reservation. Ten minutes into sending a second set of photos the system timed out.

By 10 AM we were under way for Hakahau, on the island of Ua Pou, our first stop in the Marquesas on April 8. We were going to go ashore for a swim, but were discouraged by a book on the Marquesas which said, "It is unfortunate that waste discharged from moored vessels is washed into the shallows; if you need to swim, wait until the outgoing tide flushes out the bay." The sand beach is within the area protected by the breakwater, but there was only one yacht anchored. A couple who did go swimming said it was great.

We left Hakahau around 4 PM and headed along the coast before turning out to sea. Behind the town the amazing spires of rock which shoot into the sky like huge fangs shook off their cloud cover to exposed themselves in bright sunshine as a final farewell. We were very lucky to see them clearly both coming and going.

Having watched the island drop below the horizon, I stood at the window in our cabin watching the bow rise and fall as we headed into open ocean. Being well above the height of containers and barges stacked on the main deck, there is an excellent view forward. Marilynn and I both love the open ocean, and look forward to a day at sea tomorrow.

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

After a good night's sleep and breakfast, we settled in for a quiet day at sea. I toured each class of cabin and then the bridge to take short video shots. Mr. Jules Wong, one of the owners riding with the ship, had taken information on our travel division in Costa Rica to allow us to sell the Aranui cruise in Costa Rica. If anyone is interested, contact Ray Hagist - rayh@costaricatravelstore.com or I. (danwalker@casacanada.org ). The Aranui web site is www.aranui.com .

The lowest priced accommodation is 'C' class, with bunks in a dormitory setting sharing toilet and shower facilities. All classes above 'C' have outside cabins. 'A' class cabins have either two or three single beds, a porthole and private bathroom with toilet, sink and shower. 'B' class cabins are similar, but higher in the ship and have a window. Deluxe cabins have twin or double beds, a small balcony with just room to stand and a bathroom with sink, toilet, bathtub and shower. Slightly more expensive deluxe cabins have larger balconies. Suites have balconies large enough for two lounges, a small table and two chairs and are about the side of three 'A' class cabins. On the bridge deck is the largest of the suites - the President's suite.

The ship is first a freighter, but the owners have done a great job of catering to passengers. Specialists and guides give lectures in French, English and German. The passenger areas are very comfortable, and in the evening the ship's band of guitars and ukuleles entertained in the bar, with Marilynn filling in on the bucket bass. This was a large, plastic garbage can upside down, with a string through the centre of the bottom attached to a piece of broom handle. By increasing or decreasing the tension with the broom handle while plucking the string a range of sounds was possible. Marilynn did a commendable job for the entire performance.

Thursday, April 17, 2008

We arrived at the narrow passage into the lagoon of Rangiroa Atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago just before 8 AM this morning. Passengers were permitted to cross the freight area to gather on the bow for the first time, as dolphins reliably play in the bow wave. It is a tricky passage through the gap, with its fast running currents. A small town with a church and some buildings is located on the tip of the long sandbar where it meets the passage. After crossing the lagoon we anchored well off the shallows in front of the town of Tiputa, the capital city and administrative centre for the entire Tuamotus Archipelago.

At 77 km (48 mi) long and 27 km (17 mi) wide the atoll is the largest in the Tuamotus. An airport was built on the atoll in 1965 and currently has 6 flights per week from Tahiti.

Most passengers were ferried to the beach at 8:30 AM, where there were choices of a glass bottomed boat ride in the lagoon, a visit to Gauguin's pearl farm or a visit to a wine cellar. We chose to ride to shore at 10:30 to catch the 11 AM glass bottomed boat tour. It was great, and though the price was not included, it was well worth the money. We were able to snorkel in the area of the boat when it anchored to attract fish by throwing bread in the clear water. Brilliantly coloured fish were plentiful, and three black tipped reef sharks plus the largest moray eel I've seen topped off the experience.

Once back on the boat one of the employees speared a small fish and pushed the long spear deep into the water, causing a feeding frenzy of other fish that attacked the wounded one. One of the sharks showed up and started snapping at everything in sight, then finally grabbed what was left of the fish. It was a pretty amazing to watch through the boat's glass bottom.

Our arrival back at the beach was perfectly timed for what was called a picnic, but in reality it was a big buffet featuring fresh fish, roast beef and chicken accompanied by vegetables, salad, potato salad, pickles and so on. It was a great feed, washed down by ice cold beer.

In the afternoon we snorkelled around reefs near the beach before taking the barge back to the Aranui. We departed the lagoon around 3:30 PM and spent over two hours running parallel to the seaward side of the atoll before heading into open sea.

Dinner was special, featuring superb rack of lamb. After dinner we were entertained by men in the crew performing traditional Marquesan dances, and by a group of passengers singing in both Marquesan and French. There were a lot of fond farewells before we retired for our last night on board.

Friday, April 18, 2008

The mountainous island of Tahiti was directly ahead when we rolled out of bed, and by the time we had breakfast we had docked in Papeete. A tip box for the crew was on the front desk, but there were no suggestions as to amounts or obligation to tip at all. I suspect most people did, as the crew looked after us very well. Departure arrangements were casual - however we were informed that power to the ship would be cut off at 10 AM, so that was the deadline to disembark.

Our baggage was taken to the dock, where a taxi quickly got us to the comfortable oceanfront Sheraton Hotel, located only 2 km from the airport. Although the hotel was full, the helpful fellow at reception found us a fantastic room with large balcony overlooking the ocean and the island of Moorea. We had the room only until 6 PM, but it made a comfortable and enjoyable way to pass the day. After checking out we met a fellow passenger from Australia, so we drank beer until time to leave for the airport.

Our taxi for the short hop to the airport was unbelievably expensive - 2 km for 2,700 francs! ($39) Check in and security were straight forward and now we are in a lounge with wireless internet, so I'll get this away. Our flight to LAX does not leave until 11:30 PM, which is at least better than that of our Australian companion. His flight doesn't leave until 4 AM.