Marquesa & Christmas Islands: 2 - Ua Poa-Hiva Oa, Marquesas Islands

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Our arrival at the town of Hakahau on the Island of Ua Poa was at 6 AM as scheduled. The town spilled down the lower slopes of the towering mountains until reaching the beach. The ship was tied to a concrete pier where forklifts were soon creating mountains of goods as the ship's crane unloaded them. We disembarked after 9 AM after a leisurely breakfast, as the town is quite small with little to do until just before lunch. .

The island has a population of about 1,800, most of whom live in Hakahau. This was supposed to be an internet stop, but there was no signal on board so we walked along the beach looking for the post office, where internet was available for a minimum of 3 hours for 1,950 francs ($28). Further searching brought us to a community centre where we were told there was internet. After being turned away twice we were told by a local fellow sitting in front to ask for Patrice, so we did, and once in his office he showed me to a table with a laptop computer with a deathly slow connection. The GPS position sent OK, but three times I sent the first journal and three times Yahoo said it couldn't be sent, so you either have received it three times or not at all. Yahoo absolutely refused to load photos to send. After fighting the system for over half an hour I gave it up. The cost was 500 francs ($7.15).

We strolled the streets of the village. There is no central shopping area, but we came across the odd store. The cost of living must be astronomical, and as there is little employment France must be subsidizing the area heavily. The number of new or near new vehicles was surprising. Marilynn bought two packages of cigarettes for 1,950 francs - $28 and a beer was 400 f - $5.71. After pricing other items we found it better to purchase on board ship!

An outdoor music and dance presentation was held at one of the stone platforms where ceremonial functions were performed in ancient times. A compelling beat was pounded out on large drums, to which very aggressive traditional dancing was performed by the men while women dancers swayed alongside them. The men are generally large and muscular, and those covered from head to toe with traditional tattoos appear quite fierce. The stomach of one of the women dancers was ornately tattooed as well - the show was great.

Lunch was at Tata Rosalie's restaurant nearby - the only eating or drinking establishment we saw. A buffet of local dishes featured beet, octopus, raw marinated fish, breadfruit, bananas prepared various ways and a number of other traditional dishes. Most dishes were absolutely delicious, but I don't think I'm going to acquire a taste for breadfruit no matter how they prepare it!

We sailed for the village of Hakahetau on the other side of the island shortly after lunch. The coast of the island has high cliffs, with sea caves carved into their base. The sea was much rougher on this side of the island, and it was quite exciting getting to shore in the barges. There is a tiny breakwater the length of the barge, behind which the water was rising a falling a good ten feet. It was fascinating to watch a chain of islanders throwing everything from sacks of cement to cases of drinks from one to another, then stack them on the dock as the boat bucked and dipped.

The village has a population of 200 people, including two churches. There is no store. It took a very short time to walk around the two roads and return to the dock to drink some fresh coconut milk. While waiting for a ride back to the ship another downpour came along and soaked us to the skin.

The Marquesas, located about 1,500 km (930 mi) NE of Tahiti, are mountainous volcanic islands with no protective reefs, little coral and not a lot of good beaches. Polynesians settled the islands between 200 BC and 400 AD. The first European to visit was a Spaniard in 1595. In 1842 the islands were taken over by France. Marquesans were fierce, cannibalistic warriors. Today some 8,800 people inhabit the islands, the vast majority being Catholic.

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

We woke up tied to the dock in Taiohae, the administrative capital and largest town in the Marquesas with a population of 1,940, located on the largest island, Nuku Hiva. I tried to connect to wireless internet, but while the signal was strong the system would not accept the password. The shop attendant and I tried several more passwords, but once again had to give up.

After breakfast we bought rain capes, as it was pouring, and then headed ashore. As soon as we left the ship the rain stopped, the sun came out and we didn't see rain again for the rest of the day, obviously warded off by our capes!

A truck with benches to carry passengers shuttled us into town, where we visited the Catholic Cathedral to see its beautiful wood carvings. Most four wheel drive vehicles in the area were waiting to take us for a drive across the island. We hooked up with a couple from Las Vegas and chose a new, top of the line Nissan for our ride. Although our driver, Justin, spoke only French or Marquesan, we were able to communicate by pooling our French vocabulary. He told us that due to high taxes and duties the vehicle, which he uses as a taxi, had cost him 7,000,000 francs or about $100,000.

The zig zag drive up the mountain behind the town presented fabulous views of the ship and town in the beautiful bay below. After driving past some spectacular waterfalls we arrive at the Kamuihei Ceremonial Center, a large inland historic site constructed around 1,250 AD. A giant 400 year old banyan tree that filled a stone walled flat area made the four male Marquesan dancers in front of it appear tiny. There were also ancient stone petroglyphs in the area.

The next stop was at beautiful Hatiheu Bay where a very special lunch awaited us in Chez Yvonne restaurant across from the sandy beach. We watched as hot dirt was removed from palm fronds, then layers of other steaming plant leaves were pulled back to reveal vegetables and two pigs roasted on underground hot rocks. We drank Tahitian beer and ate what we thought was the main meal of shrimps, marinated fish, pork and vegetables. When it was cleared away, half of a huge lobster was placed in front of us. This was followed by plates of meat from the pigs we had seen being uncovered. Not many of us had room left to do justice to desert - it was a truly superb meal.

Marilynn went for a swim in the bay after lunch, then we located our driver and he took us to Taipivai Bay, where the Aranui was shuttling cargo in by barge to be unloaded by a backhoe they drove into the surf. We went aboard one of the landing barges by hopping onto the lowered front ramp. Tonight we skipped dinner!

Thursday, April 10, 2008

This morning we were tied up to a cement pier in Atuona on the island of Hiva Oa. Hiva Oa has a population of 1,850 of which 1,400 live in this town. At 9 AM buses were waiting to transport us to the cemetery located well up the sloping hillside, below the peaks surrounding town, where we visited the grave of Paul Gauguin and others. A walk down the hill took us to a store that sold only cold beer, so a considerable contingent from the ship were downing beer at 10 AM. As usual, it was boiling hot, humid and sunny.

Across the street, sloping down to the sea, was the Paul Gauguin museum, which we explored along with a building housing a twin engine Beechcraft Bonanza. The plane was brought to the island in 1975 by Jaques Brel, a French singer and actor, who became a local hero by flying sick islanders to the hospital. He is also buried in the cemetery we visited earlier.

Although buses were waiting to take us to the Hoa Hui Restaurant we chose to walk. Today's lunch was a buffet featuring dozens more delicious island specialties. All three restaurants we have lunched in are owned by large women in their 70's, who have a wonderful way with food.

As with other islands in the group, the area was litter free and well maintained. Having seen most of the town, we took the shuttle back to the ship after lunch, where I had a siesta and Marilynn swam in the ship's pool. The tours, transportation and shore meals have all been laid on by the shipping company as part of the package.