Himalayas & China 2005: 15 - To Phuntsholing, Bhutan via Gangtok, Sikkim

Wednesday, October 19, 2005

The weather was cloudy, so neither the valley below nor mountains beyond were visible. We received word that our trip on the famous "Toy Train" had been cancelled, as the required 28 people had not signed on to go, so a walking tour was planned. Just before we left an urgent message arrived - there were enough people and the train was going. A taxi mini-van was commandeered and did a magnificent job of weaving through dense Darjeeling traffic to get us to the station. The horn is indispensable here, I'm sure if it wasn't working it would be necessary to park the vehicle.

There was lots of time before the train left to watch the three little steam engines being prepared and cars being shunted about. The train, which made Darjeeling a popular summer retreat by cutting time to get there from 5-6 days to under 12 hours, is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The narrow gauge railway was build by the British between 1879 and 1881 using revolutionary engineering techniques, such at "Z" turns to zigzag up steep slopes. The high point on the railway, Ghum, our destination today, is over 2000 meters (6,560') about the start of the track 90 km below. It was the second highest station in the world at 2,259 m, (7,408') until recently. Cuzco in the Andes is the highest.

Once on board our comfortable car we chugged off. The small engines that belch smoke and steam haul 3 coaches. The whistle was going almost continuously, as the track winds back and forth across the road about 100 times over 90 km. The track was there before the road, so the road builders had little option. It was a relaxing, fun trip. We had time to walk though the train museum in Ghum, and then chugged back down hill to Darjeeling.

In Darjeeling, a city of about 100,000, you are either going up hill, or down hill, as it is built on the peak of a ridge. The language here is Nepalese, and most families originally came from Nepal in British days. Ashim, our guide, is from here. His family have a hotel catering to Indian tourists located down a steep footpath below the railway station, where we were invited for lunch. Drinks were served before a delicious meal of soup and Momos, the pastry wrapped meat or vegetables similar to that offered in Chinese Dim Sum restaurants. Ashim's mother, father, aunt, uncle and sister were all involved in the meal, served in their living area. It was a real treat.

It was 2:15 PM when we climbed back to our vehicles at station level and were driven to the bank to change money. Ashim and I found the currency exchange department, but there were no employees. I sat on one of the chairs while Ashim tried to find out what was going on. While he was away a staff member told me everyone was away for lunch and wouldn't return until after 3 PM. Apparently the whole department goes for lunch at the same time.

We decided to give up for now and drove to the zoo, where a donation to the police guard permitted our vehicles to climb the hill to the zoo, saving a long steep walk. The zoo specializes in high altitude species, including the snow leopard and the national animal of Sikkim, the rare red panda. The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, founded by Nehru after the successful conquest of Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953, is located beside the zoo. The items on display concern mountaineering and the conquest of Everest. Early Everest expeditions originated in Darjeeling, as Nepal was closed to outsiders, and Tenzin Norgay lived here until his death.

We tried the bank again on the way back to the hotel, but this time it was closed. At the hotel we retreated to the bar for drinks, then to the dining room for a far superior meal than we had the night before. We decided to pass on the view of sunrise over the Himalayas from Tiger Hill, which required leaving the hotel by 3 AM. There was very little visibility due to cloud, and it did not look like it was going to clear up any time soon. We were all tired, and Jeanna is fighting a miserable cold.

Thursday, October 20, 2005

Both Marilynn and I woke up around 3 AM and were delighted at our decision to pass on sunrise viewing - it was pouring rain. We were to meet the guide at 9:30 AM to try the bank once again. I used the time from 3 AM to finish up a dispatch, which I tried to send out on the hotel's internet. It is the slowest system I've ever seen! After over 20 minutes it was just starting to load the "compose" window in Yahoo and the connection went out. After 45 minutes I hadn't managed to get back to compose, so gave it up.

Reception said there was an internet café up the hill that would open at 8:30, so I climbed the switchback path to the top. This area is closed to vehicles, so it is a different world with a plaza, hotels, shops and no cars. The internet café had just opened, so I was soon on a computer, only to find there was no word processing program to read my floppy. In a somewhat less than tranquil mood I hurried back to the hotel for a quick, spartan breakfast.

India's reputation for bureaucracy is well deserved. When I checked out it required three men in suits lined up shoulder to shoulder to do the job. The first took the room key; the second laboriously wrote on a notepad each charge slip with description and amount in spite of having a computer sitting there. He then added each amount on an adding machine and passed the total to person number three, who took the payment. It took me 15 minutes to pay our bar bill, and Achim almost an hour to settle the room account.

We were climbing into the car when a messenger came to say they had given me the wrong bill. After all that, the fellow in the centre had added the slips from the wrong room! There is proof that too many cooks spoil the broth! The process was repeated, the amount I had paid previously was deducted and apparently a satisfactory settlement made over the next 15 minutes. Amazing!

The bank had opened by 10, but it was 10:15 before we arrived. There were several other tourists waiting in foreign exchange but no staff. At about 10:35 a clerk arrived to say it would be another half hour before they received the exchange rate of the day from Calcutta. Offering to pay the cost of a phone call to get the rate didn't work as it was outside normal procedure. Most people left for the moneychanger, leaving only a traveller from Holland and I. I'd have left as well, but between Tim and I we need personal cash plus the cost of the second vehicle and driver, a significant amount.

Shortly after 10 three employees arrived. One went through a lengthy process of setting up while the other two seemed to be there only to relax. The Dutch fellow was ahead of me, and after 10 or 15 minutes of processing was on his way to the next phase. My passport was examined, I was given two forms to fill out, the US dollars were accepted and counted several times, rubber stamps connected with varying bits of paper and extensive entries were made in a ledger. Full passport details were noted on another form. I was then given two completed, stamped forms, my passport and a numbered token that I was to take to a wicket on the second floor.

On arrival at the designated window I was told to take a seat, my number would be called. Sure enough, there was the Dutch chap sitting there. After a few minutes, he was summoned, processed and sent on his way. Some others somehow were ahead of me, and then my turn came. My papers were accepted, more rubber stamps banged into place, more notes made in a ledger and finally Indian Rupees were counted out to me. It made the Costa Rican state banking system look pretty good!

At last we were on our way to Sikkim. We started on the same road we arrived on, and then turned on another route through forests of straight, tall trees towards the entry point at Rangpoo. Along the way we stopped to examine some tea plants and photograph dozens of the wild monkeys that live in the area. One even leapt onto our car to peer in the windows.

We had lunch at a restaurant near the Sikkim border where I tried the excellent local beer while Achim got the paperwork done. From there we followed the Tista River upstream through tropical rainforest until we came to a narrow road climbing through a dramatic series of switchbacks high into the mountains. The scenery was beautiful. At sunset we came to the Rumtek Monastery where again Achim managed to get permission for us to go up the pedestrian road by car. Marilynn and Jeanna walked, but Tim has a problem with long, steep climbs so he and I rode.

At the monastery horns were blowing from the upper monastery balcony calling the monks to prayer. The four huge horns sound somewhat like the alpenhorns of Switzerland as they echoed over the valley. Inside some monks were preparing the evening meal, and although the main prayer hall and temple was closed Achim got a monk to open it for us.

It was dark when we left the monastery for the winding hour-long drive to Gangtok. The zigzag drive through the cliff-hanging town was reminiscent of Zhang Mu, but eventually we reached the Netuk House Hotel located in the upper reaches of the city. Our first impression wasn't great, as once again there was no heat and it was a cluster of buildings that didn't look great in the darkness. Once settled into the cozy bar for our evening libation, it seemed a lot better. Things continued to improve as the owner came in to have a couple of drinks with us, then took us to the dining room where dinner was excellent. He regaled us with many tales of Sikkim in his very outgoing manner, so by the time we had eaten and drank our fill we were very content.

I stopped to use the hotel computer to send email then returned to the room for a really pleasant surprise. Our king sized bed had hot water bottles on both sides, so was toasty warm. Rain had started to come down steadily, so it was great to slip into slumber in the warm bed to the rhythm of the rain.

Sikkim has been a surprise for both Tim and I. The large areas with tropical climate, a visibly higher standard of living, the natural beauty and the large amount of uninhabited natural forest were all surprises. It is so peaceful that according to my travel book it once got into the Guinness Book of Records for going 10 years without a single criminal case. Plastic bags are banned. There is a 10,000 rupee ($250.00) fine plus compulsory 2-month jail sentence for proprietors of stores using them. Aside from the litter problem, they clog the smallish drains, backing up water and causing landslides in monsoon season. Bhutan has apparently copied this legislation.

The roads we travelled were basically quite good. It was interesting to see they get maximum use out of bridges. One quite long span had a sign that said "Weak bridge. One car at a time on the bridge", and another by the border post said, "Weak bridge. Do not stop on the bridge."

Friday, October 21, 2005

Unfortunately the rhythm of the rain continued unabated. By morning if anything, it was heavier. We downed a great breakfast and headed for the handicraft market, which is definitely worth missing. Most items for sale were mass-produced low quality tourist goods. The stop at the flower show was also a disappointment, as it is not the time of year for the best flowers. The display hall is nicely laid out, with pools between the banks of flowers, but most flowers were nearly dead mums. It wasn't worth getting wet for.

The final stop was the Tibetology building, dedicated to Tibetan Buddhism. I didn't go in, and Tim and Jeanna were both out quite quickly, as it consists of a series of display cases with artefacts we were familiar with from Tibet, but Marilynn was intrigued as the explanations were all in English. I finally went in and got her as the rest of us were freezing on the front patio. Rain was pelting down.

Our next stop was Rangpoo for lunch and beer at the same restaurant we had lunched at the day before, while Ashim did the exit formalities. This time I tried the stronger beer, which said "For sale only in Sikkim", as it had an alcohol content of 8%. Sikkim is duty free for alcohol and liquor stores are everywhere. From the restaurant it was onwards and upwards to our destination for night, the Silver Oaks Hotel in Kalimpong.

The same person who owns the Elgin Hotel where we stayed in Darjeeling owns this hotel, but it is in much better shape. Where the Elgin had shabby carpets, towels and some silver that the plate had worn off, most things seemed in good shape at the Silver Oaks. The rooms were spacious, with chairs, tables and couches. Our room had three bay windows looking over beautiful gardens from the second floor. The bar and restaurant were heated, but the rest of the building was not, except for the standard useless electric heaters provided for the room, but hot water bottles were provided. The pouring rain on the roof once again lulled us to sleep - we are just hoping that it gets it out of its system by morning.

Saturday, October 22, 2005

When we woke up it was still socked in, but by the time breakfast was over the clouds had broken up and we could see the view below. Once again there was drama at check out, as Tim wanted to pay his bill by credit card. It was advertised at the desk and on hotel literature that credit cards were accepted, however the traditional three people at the desk informed Tim that he would have to wait until the hotel manager came in as he was the only one who could accept a credit card. Tim stood his ground, more hotel staff gathered around, the manager was phoned and finally when it was clear that they weren't going to get paid if they didn't accept the credit card the manager talked the reception clerk through the procedure of swiping the card and entering the amount!

The Silver Oaks Hotel is quite well done. It has beautiful rooms, gardens and view, but like the New Egin Hotel in Darjeeling it has enormous staff problems. It seems obvious that they need management who know something about staff training and hotel operation. When we arrived in our large, comfortable, view room there were no hand towels, no toilet paper, no heater and the carpet had fleas in it. All major problems in both hotels could be attributed to poor management.

We headed down the twisting road in gradually clearing weather until we reach the river, then drove through a beautiful tropical canyon where monkeys often lined the road, sitting on the guardrail. This required numerous photo stops. Apparently people throw food out car windows, so the monkeys now wait expectantly.

When we came out of the canyon in bright sunshine we were in flat tropical countryside, with waving palm trees, banana trees and tea estates as far as the eye could see. We made better time as long as the good road lasted, but eventually it turned into potholed pavement with more potholes than pavement. The fields are not fenced, so there was also the matter of dodging cows, goats and other livestock that wandered around the road as if they owned it. There were also a lot of people along the road acting as pack animals, some under impossibly large loads.

At a road junction with a small village there was a traffic jam. Investigation revealed that the bridge was out. I took a walk to the bridge and video taped the situation - some vehicles were trying to ford the river, but big trucks hauling rock and dirt to construct a temporary route blocked the mud track to the river.

Ashim, as inventive as ever, talked to some residents and learned there was a ford across the river. When we arrived at the track leading to the ford local people had set up a toll station - a bench across the road that was removed upon receipt of payment. A little further along we came to the river, managed to get across it but promptly got stuck on the other side. Some discussion and the exchange of more money had a number of people pushing the car until we got onto high ground. Our second vehicle made it through with no problem. When we returned to the highway after paying for one more road blocking bench to be removed, we passed over two kilometres of trucks and buses lined up waiting to proceed. It was a very bad situation for them, but a financial boom for those living near the ford!

Eventually we arrived at the Bhutan border in the Indian town of Jaigaon. There is a large, ornate gate over the road at the entry point to the Bhutanese town of Phuentsoling. Apparently it is normally possible to simply pass through, but 19 tourists had entered the country the day before without visas, so today they were checking everyone. We waited while Ashim ran to the Druk Hotel, our meeting point just inside Bhutan, and returned with Sonam Dorjee, the owner of Nirvana Tours and organizer of the Bhutan part of our trip.

He had all visas and documents ready to go, so there was no further delay. It is not necessary to have a visa to make a day visit to Bhutan, but it is not possible to stay overnight or proceed further than the checkpoint on the other side of town. The two towns are connected - locals wander back and forth with no formalities at all. In spite of this, the difference in the two sides of the border is remarkable. The Indian side has garbage lying all over the roadsides, many buildings are simple shacks and the racket from horns in the perpetual traffic jam is continuous. On the Bhutanese side there is little traffic and thus little noise, buildings are substantial and well maintained and the streets are clean.

Our idea was to have a late lunch with our two drivers and Ashim (it was nearly 4 PM and no one had eaten since breakfast), but the drivers were worried about the river they had to cross, as it looked like it was going to rain, so we said goodbye to them all. Ashim has been a great guide. He was not to be deterred by obstacles, is knowledgeable and a great guy to be around - we were sorry to see him go. Both the drivers were good as well. Full marks to Dharma Adventures for providing the excellent people they did in Nepal, Sikkim and India. They did a great job.

This is also the end of the part of the trip organized by Bestway Tours of Vancouver, B.C. For such a complicated trip, stretching from Afghanistan to Bhutan, there were very few problems. That is why going through this quality of professional company rather than trying to do it yourself is the best bet, as things come together seamlessly.

When we went for lunch Sonam joined us to go over the details of the trip. We are delighted that he has decided to escort us personally. Han Iluk, a friend who is also in the tour business, recommended Sonam. He used to work from the Alam Indah Hotel, in Ubud Bali, which has become one of our favourite places worldwide. He is now doing tours of South East Asia from his base in Thailand.

After lunch Jeanna, Marilynn and I took a walk around town, returning to the hotel for drinks and a very light dinner. The Druk Hotel is much more than I had expected for a border town. The food is good, the staff friendly and helpful, there is hot water and the rooms perfectly adequate. None of us was late heading for bed!